Drifter's Diary

Nagareshwara @ Bankapura

2012-02-17T21:58:00.000+05:30

Bankapura, a place of historicalimportance is famous for Nagareshwara Temple and the PeacockSanctuary. The temple and peacock sanctuary both are located within the fortarea of the town. The fort which covers a large area of 139 acres is inabsolute ruins. The name ‘Bankapura’ was derived from ‘Bankeya’, who was arenowned general of Rashtrakuta emperor Amoghavarsha I (Nripatunga).

Bankapura was ruled by Western Chalukyas initially. In AD1140 Hoysala KingVishnuvardhana made this place as the capital of his northern territories. It is also believedthat Vishnuvardhana breathed his last here. Post AD1550 Muslim rulers took overthis place until it was annexed by British in the year 1802.

Highlights:

The temple consists of Mukhamanatapa, Navaranga, Antarala and Garbhagruha (Sanctum).
This temple is also known as ‘Aruvattu Kambagala Gudi’ (Sixty Pillars Temple) after the sixty beautiful Chalukyan style pillars in the Mukhamantapa.
There is a beautiful carving of lotus in the middle ankana of the Mukhamantapa.
The Mukhamantapa can be entered from 3 sides and has Kakshasanas (seating arrangements) all across its border. One can find miniature Gopuras (towers) and delicately carved miniature sculptures all along the outer wall of the Mukhamantapa.
The temple was subject to attacks on its discovery and many sculptures have vanished including that of the main deity.
Navaranga is connected to Mukhamantapa via a beautiful Mantapa which has seating arrangements on either side. The 2 pillars in this Mantapa are full of rich carvings and are main attraction of this temple.
The door of Navaranga has beautifully carved five band decorations with attractive Gajalakshmi motif on the lintel.
Navaranga originally had 2 entrances on either side with beautiful Mantapas, now only one remains. We can find beautiful and crafty work on the right side entrance. The one on the left was severely damaged by muslim attackers and is now permanently closed by constructing a wall.
Navaranga has 4 pillars and some Devakoshthas which are empty.
The Antarala door has perforated windows on both sides and a Makaratorana atop.
The Sanctum has a bare doorframe with a fading Gajalakshmi on the lintel.

Bottomline: The Nagareshwaratemple which stands below the ground level is a marvelous structure built in Western Chalukyan style. How it withstood the attacks ofmuslim marauders is a mystery. Popular belief is that the whole temple wasburied under mud by the villagers before they left the town fearing musliminvasion. This in fact is also the reason why we find the temple below theground level today.

Harihareshwara @ Harihara

2012-02-11T09:28:00.002+05:30

The temple was built in the year1224 by ‘Polalva’ a minister of Hoysala King Veera Narasimha II. It is believedthat the consecration of Lord Harihara, a fusion of Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnuwas carried out later in the year 1268 by ‘Soma’ who was a commander of HoysalaKing Narasimha III.

The temple stands on the banks ofriver Tungabhadra and is affected to a great extent by encroachment. The roadleading to the temple is very narrow and crowded.

Highlights:

The temple consists of an attractive Sabhamantapa, Navaranga, Antarala and Sanctum.
The Navaranga has 2 more entrances on either side. These entrances have attractive Mukhamantapa but remain closed always.
The Mukhamantapas on either side of Navaranga have attractive carvings on outer sides similar to those on the Sabhamantapa.
The doorjamb of Antarala is of Trishakha type consisting of perforated windows and a Gajalakshmi motif on the lintel.
The door of Sanctum has simple decorations.
The original Shikhara (Tower) has collapsed long back.

Bottomline: According to a legend,a demon named Guhasura once lived in these parts. He successfully appeased LordBrahma and obtained a boon, by virtue of which, it would be impossible foreither Hari(Vishnu) or Hara(Shiva) to kill him. Inorder to eliminate Guhasura, Vishnu and Shiva togethertook the form of Harihara and killed the demon.

Source: Wiki

Someshwara @ Kodikoppa

2012-02-09T19:50:00.000+05:30

This temple is 'whitewashed' in full by the devotees ofKodikoppa. Apart from that the temple is intact. Kodikoppa is referred to as‘Kirunareyangal’ in the 2 inscriptions found here dated AD 1121 and AD 1144.

Colourfull Door!

Highlights:

It is a simple structure consisting of Mukhamantapa, Navaranga, Antarala, Garbhagruha (Sanctum) and a Shikhara (tower) of Kadamaba Nagara style.
The temple though now called Someshwara was also known as Brahmeshwara temple and also by the name of Mallikarjuna Temple.
Small Shivalinga is in the sanctum.
Door of Navaranga is of Panchashakha type consisting of various creeper designs which are now defaced due to the red and green paint.
Antrarala door consists of Jalandhras (perforated windows) on both sides and top.
There are six Devakoshthas (niches) in Navaranga and all are empty.

Trademark Western Chalukya Style Pillars

AD 1144 Inscription

Bottomline: There is no information regarding exact year ofconstruction. But the mention in the AD 1144 inscription that one ‘MolleyaBrahmaiah’ as the person who constructed this temple indicates that the templewas constructed some time before AD 1144.

Source: ASI

Amrutheshwara @ Annigeri

2012-01-30T15:42:00.002+05:30

Annigeri is historically an important place. Over 25inscriptions have been found here. In these inscriptions Annigeri is referredto as ‘Anyatatakka’ and ‘Annigeri’ as well. Historians have learnt that thisplace was the capital city of Western Chalukyan king Someshwara IV and Kalachuri kingBijjala. The oldest inscription is dated to the year AD 750 to the time ofBadami Chalukya King Keertiverma II.

Famous Kannada poet Pampawas born here in AD 902. Among the many old temples of Annigeri, Amrutheshwara Temple stands out. It was constructedduring the reign of Western Chalukyan kingSomeshwara I in the year 1050.

Highlights:

This east facing temple consists of Mukhamantapa, Sabhamantapa, Navaranga, Antarala and Garbhagruha (Sanctum).
Temple has 2 Shikharas – one atop the Sanctum and the other a smaller one atop the Mukhamantapa.
The spacious Sabhamantapa which has doors on all 4 sides was a later addition.
The main entrance of the temple opens to Navaranga.
From Navaranga there are 2 openings on either side – one leading to Antarala on its way to Sanctum and the other opening into Sabhamantapa.
The main door of the temple is of Saptashakha type and the craftsmanship seen here is the main attraction of the temple.
The outer wall of the temple has typical Western Chalukya style work consisting of some Shikharas and Makaratoranas.

Bottom Line: No photography is allowed inside the temple.The villagers themselves raised objection when I took out the camera. The ASIguy who was occupied somewhere else rushed towards me after hearing thearguments and asked me not to take any photos. Though, when he and certainvillagers are not present within the temple premises then nobody stops visitorsfrom taking photos. I was there at the wrong time.

Source: ASI

Kedareshwara @ Balligavi

2012-01-27T18:30:00.000+05:30

Balligavi was a great cultural and learning center. It wasone of the capitals of Western Chalukyas. Therich antiquity of this place was the reason for it being labeled as the capitalof ancient cities.

Highlights:

Trikuta Style Temple facing east with Shivalingas in west and south cells and an idol of Vishnu in the north cell.
Sabhamantapa consists of 44 classy pillars.
The Shivalinga in the main sanctum was consecrated by Western Chalukyas and the temple in Trikuta style was completed in the year 1056 by Hoysalas (to be verified).
Life sized Nandi statue.

Bottom Line: Quiet a number of famous personalities ofancient Karnataka have Balligavi in their resume as the birthplace. FamousKannada Vachana poet Allama Prabhu who lived during 12^th century wasbelieved to be born here so are the equally famous and celebrated sculptures ofHoysala times Dasoja, Malloja, Nadoja and Siddoja. Shantala Devi, theenchanting queen of Hoysala King Vishnuvardhana was also born here.

Source: ASI

Kalleshwara @ Bagali

2012-01-23T14:39:00.008+05:30

Visited the Kalleshwara temple at Bagali about 4 years back. Since then it has been a desire and longing to visit this temple again. Exquisite craft work combined with rich decorative pillars and doors make it one of the finest temple in Kisukadu, as ancient Karnataka was known. The temple is a fine example of Western Chalukyan art.

Superbly Carved Antarala Dwara

Fine Carvings of Trimurthis above the Gajalakshmi Motif

The fully decorated Saptashakha style Dwara of Navaranga with Dwarapalakas

The Super Pillars - Each with a style of its own!

As The Nandi sees...

Highlights:

Majority of the temple was constructed in the year 1118 during the reign of Western Chalukya king Vikramaditya VI.
Sanctum is in Rashtrakoota style, Navaranga and Sabhamantapa are in Western Chalukya style and Shikhara is in Viajyanagara style.
Shivalinga in the main sanctum facing east.
A magnificent sculpture of Ugranarasimha made of shining black stone sits in another sanctum facing south.
Sabhamantapa has 64 uniquely carved pillars. Each pillar differs from the other.
Navaranga has a separate entrance, whose door is full of top quality craftsmanship.
Temple has 2 Nandi statues – One in Navaranga and another in Sabhamantapa.
Temple has many nice erotic sculptures on its outer wall and for this reason the temple is also known as Khajuraho of Karnataka!

High Quality Carvings on the second entrance to Navaranga

41 stones with inscription have been found in Bagali. 36 of these inscriptions were found in this temple alone, out of which 12 belong to Vikramaditya’s 51 year rule. The village was then known as 'Balguli'. According to an inscription dated 1194 this place was one of the capitals of Hoysala King Veera Ballala II.

Eroticaaaaaa...........

Bottom Line: That sculpture depicting Ugranarsimha splitting open Hiranyakashipu’s stomachwith Prahlada and Narada watching is a masterpiece. Thesurface is so smooth and shiny that even a dust particle would slide down and I am not exaggerating. The ASI staff at any cost would not allow to take the photo of this outstanding creation of art. Photos of such magnificent creations, even if WE manage to get, it is our responsibility not to publish them anywhere.

Information Source: ASI

Braganza Waterfall!

2009-09-11T22:59:00.014+05:30

Funny name for a waterfall, isn't it? Infact its the name given by us to a very small waterfall of height 20ft falling just by the side of the railway track connecting Goa and Karnataka.

Though I dislike trekking on railway track, I was requested to join this trek by those people to whom I could not say no. Did enjoy the waterfall part of the trek. Walking on tracks was as torturous as always.

The railway line was built by a British Officer named Braganza and in recognition of his dedication and awesome engineering skill the ghat is named after him. The station on the Karnataka side is curiously named 'Castlerock'.

There is a small and unofficial story behind this 'Castlerock' name. Two of the first 3 tunnels ( may be 1st and 2nd or 2nd and 3rd or 1st and 3rd : I fail to recall it 100%) towards Goa have an entrance where a 'Castle' like structure has been constructed (same structure exists at exits from these tunnels as well).

And immediately after these 3 tunnels on the valley side of the track a large rock makes up a great sight. The thick forest cover around gives a prominent view to this rock.

After the construction of the railway line, a name had to be given to the station, which the British also planned to use as a stockyard for food items imported from England. There was no previous name for this place nor anybody knew anything about the place. The area was densely forested except the railway line. Hence due to the presence of the 'Castles' and the 'Rock', the name 'Castlerock' was given to this station. And the name just got stuck like a glue!

The revenue office of the British was said to be here at Castlerock. One can still see the remains of 2 huge stockyards by the side of the railway tracks where food and grains were stored by British. Castlerock was also a favourite Tiger hunting spot for the British. It is amazing that the place is still calm and serene. Just the freight trains and the occassional Passenger trains make a noise. Apart from that the place is absolutely quiet like dead!

The water flowing down from Braganza falls is connected via pipeline to couple of drinking water points for the benefit of Gangmen on duty. Surprisingly the waterfall has an arch built infront of it! The arch and the waterfall present a lovely sight if seen from across the railway track.

Gokak Falls

2009-08-02T20:28:00.007+05:30

Located 4kms from Gokak town, this waterfall is active when excess water is released from the Hidkal dam built upstream across Ghataprabha river. The waterfall is in a very open place hence, though it creates noise one can not help but feel that there is no thundering noise like any other waterfall of this magnitude.

Gokak Falls is over 350ft height and about 150ft in width and the sight is one to behold. The water is muddy most of the time during rains as the river gushes down from the dam to the falls and then peripherals Gokak town to flow further towards Bagalkot District where it joins Krishna River. The river originates in the mountains bordering Karnataka and Goa at Khanapur Taluk in Belagavi District.

There is an old hanging bridge built by British across the river just above the waterfall exclusively built for the benefit of the villagers who were working in the Cotton Mill. The bridge has withstood the traverse of time and is still being used by people. It is indeed an awesome experience walking across this bridge with water gushing just below and plumetting to a great depth just ahead. I panicked midway through the bridge and hurriedly headed back.

One can walk all the way to the edge of the waterfall and view from very close up. During non monsoon times there is very little water in the waterfall and local people venture all the way to the base of the waterfall. There is a cave like structure across the length of the waterfall right at the base and people make perfect use of this structure to catch fish, or as a diving platform to the large pool of water below. From above they look like small dots moving around!

Chitradurga Fort

2009-07-14T21:49:00.006+05:30

Been to this fort at Chitradurga about three years back. If one googles about 'Chitradurga Fort' enough information is available. Precise information is available in Wikipedia as well. So let me not write anything here. Enjoy the pictures.

Yana

2009-06-14T10:49:00.009+05:30

Been to this place called Yana about 3 years back. The place is famous because of couple of amazing rock formations. Lord Shiva's names have been given to these rock formations and a temple of Lord Shiva is also built here. Hence the place is hugely popular among Shiva's devotees.

The place used to be accessible only by 4-5 hours trek through dense forest about a decade back. Now due to rapid commercialisation a road has beem built right to the foot of the rock formations! When I went there, I was expecting at least an hour of trekking. But was utterly disappointed as my 2 wheeler easily found the way all the way to the Shiva Temple and the rocks.

The rock formations are mesmerising. There is a cave which runs across the whole lenght of one of these rocks known as Bhairaveshwara Rock.

Concrete steps with railings have been constructed to make it easy for the visitors to enter this cave. Just goes to show how we destroy the natural beauty of a place in the name of God.

Things have changed at Yana. People are thronging to this place in huge numbers. During Shivaratri its chaos here. The forests have moved away from Yana. People have taken their place by force.

A lovely stream on the way is a beautiful place to spend some time though. We took a heavenly and leisurely bath here on our way back. The stream was just perfect for relaxing.

The name 'Yana' is lovely and so are the rocks, but the place stinks. For the naked eye of a casual visitor all may seem good. But if one peers just below the surface then the destruction of forest, plastic strewn all over, garbage not cleared give a clear idea as to where Yana is headed. Yana can never get back its earlier beauty. But atleast lets hope that it survives!

Train Track Trek

2009-05-13T10:38:00.005+05:30

Three years back I had been to this trek on the railway track in the western ghat region of Karnataka. The route was discontinued some 2 decades back owing to gauge conversion. The process took hell of a long time and just got completed couple of years back. Till then the route was a god send gift to nature lovers.

Trekking on this route, with its numerous tunnels and bridges is a great experience. There are couple of waterfalls to rejuvanate trekkers. Caution is the keyword while walking on those bridges. Though trains are running on this route now, trekkers still continue to roam in this place.

The night stay at the station in the middle of the forest was great experience. We stayed in what was an employee quarters. The station was shelter for workers engaged in gauge conversion work.

Personally somehow I do not enjoy the Train Track Treks. Walking on tracks is a torture for me. Just to have a feel of the nature that’s available for free I went on this trek once. Friends have gone 3 more times on this trek, but I did not join them. The view on this route is awesome, if one covers the entire distance.

Visit to a Beach

2009-03-23T09:33:00.004+05:30

Strolled down to to this beach on a recent weekend. One of those rare clean beaches of Karnataka. Beaches are becoming crowded and spoilt. The noise and rubbish created by the crowd diminishes the natural beauty of any beach.

A peaceful and clean beach is what I look for. And thank God, there are many in coastal Karnataka which are tucked away from the eyes and minds of those mindless tourists.

Local children were busy splashing around at this beach. Keeping them company was a dog. Nice time I had. Already I have visited this place 3 times in last couple of months. More visits will follow.

Trek to a Hill made Famous by Trekkers

2009-03-11T18:37:00.009+05:30

Last week been to this place called 9gudda. Gudda in Kannada means Hill and the peak has nine major humps; hence the name - 9gudda.

I had read in many treklogs that the path to this place is mysterious and one is bound to lose way. It is advised by almost all who wrote about their trekking experience to this place that carrying a GPS, Compass and Map is MUST. Without which one is sure to lose his way in forest. And to top it all some mentioned the presence of elephants all along the trek route. The combination of all these factors has made this hill quite famous.

Usually trekkers ascend this hill by one route (which is said to be tough) and descend by another route (which is said to be easy). For me when it comes to trekking to a mountain peak, reaching the peak is of paramount importance than how. I enjoy the stunning view all peaks provide and to enjoy this view I always try to find the easiest way to reach the top of a hill. So when it came to 9gudda, I obviously discarded the ascending route and opted for the other route from where trekkers usually make thier exit from 9gudda.

We were atop the 9gudda in 5 hours. What should have taken us less than 3 hrs took us more than 5 hours. Where the route was piece of cake we messed it up and where we were supposed to mess it up it was piece of cake. As a result there was 2.5 hours of aimless wandering just because we missed a very very easy landmark.

If one is to count the humps on top of the hill they will never sum up to 9. But it is said there are indeed 9 humps. The peaks of Amedikallu and Ettinabhuja (partially) are visible. On other side Deepada Kallu (I hope I am right here) and Jenukallu Gudda make up a good view.

Walking along the ridge from one hump to another should be a pleasant experience. We had a long way to walk back and a bus to catch. So, we stood on top of what is known as the 4th hump, watched the remainig 5 humps from here and hurried back. That was a good decision we took or else we would have missed the bus and a working day at office!

If we had not lost our way we would have had enough time to walk up to the 9th hump as well. But it was not to be. May be next time.

Kumara Parvatha

2008-12-22T17:33:00.008+05:30

Kumara Parvata, popularly known among trekkers as KP is the Third tallest peak in Karnataka (based on the height from sea level). Mullayyanagiri and Kuduremukha both in Chikmagalur District take the first 2 spots. About 5 years back I had trekked to Kumara Parvata. It is an imposing peak with thick shola forest cover from all sides.

Kukke Subramanya is a famous pilgrimage place known for the temple of Lord Subramanya. The majestic structure of KP looms large behind the temple at a very far distance. The trek actually starts from a by-lane near the temple itself. After about a kilometer of treading on mud road the path deviates and takes off into forest. From here on its nearly 4 hours uphill walk to a place called Girigadde. This stretch is quite boring, with absolutely no open view. The forest is monotonous and offers no excitement.

About a kilometer before Girigadde, the path breaks free from the forest and makes way into open land. Now with the boring forest behind me, I really started to enjoy the trek from this point onwards. Though rest of my fellow trekkers were already at Girigadde House (One Mr.Bhat lives in this single house at Girigadde), I really slowed down a lot after the forest cover was over. It was great view all around.

It was about 6pm when I reached Girigadde House. 5 hours of looong and winding trek path! Our plan was to stay at this house for the night and continue towards the peak early next morning.

Mr.Bhat offers food and shelter to the trekkers. Some call it as a great service. But I plainly saw it as a business. He does charge a lot for food and hence it can not be called as service. Fair enough, trekkers get a place to rest and quench the thirst and hunger; but at a good price! Nothing wrong in it. I somehow just could not think beyond seeing it as a 'Business'.

Early in the morning at about 6, we were off towards the peak. On the way there are 2 main sub-peaks to be crossed known as 'Bhattada Raashi' and 'Shesha Parvata'. The walk along the side of Bhattada Raashi was exciting. Atop Shesha Parvata it is a fabulous view.

From Shesha Parvata the path leads down into rain forest and then comes up at the far end in what is known as the peak of Kumara Parvata. It was 10 am when I reached there. The trek is worth. Except for the initial route till a kilometer before Girigadde, rest of the trek path is awesome.

Tillari - Where Nature Rules

2008-09-07T22:51:00.008+05:30

Tillari is a fabulous place. Isolated and surrounded by scenic mountains this place is a heaven for nature lovers. Waterfalls, lush green landscape, mountains and most importantly no people, makes one feel like his own king in Tillari. Nature rules here.

There are some lovely waterfalls around Tillari. Friends had been busy scouting these waterfalls and invited me to join. There is a small yet beautiful waterfall which is hidden in canopy with mesmerizing surroundings. Then we were off to the viewpoint to view 2 more waterfalls which are about 100 ft in height and lay side by side. The magnificent Tillari valley presents a great sight from here.

Though friends had definite information of couple of more waterfalls nearby, it was decided to go in search of them next time and we headed to starting point of Tillari ghat road. The sight here is one to behold. Long range of majestic mountains dotted the landscape and small yellow flowers bedded the earth to quite a good distance.

The Tillari ghat road is one to be explored as it is risk filled road with not many vehicles plying. The fact that insurance claim is not applicable to any mishap that may occur on this road explains the danger involved.

Next Tillari mission is coming up soon and the task involves searching the remaining waterfalls and may be a drive down Tillari ghat.

Doodhsagar Delight

2008-08-23T10:35:00.014+05:30

Doodhsagar is one of the major waterfalls of India. The Khandepar river plummets to a depth of over 650 ft to present an awesome spectacle. Though perennial in nature, doodhsagar is to be watched in monsoon to get a feel of the might of nature. Khandepar river takes birth in Karnataka and after covering a short distance enters Goa to form this waterfall before joining Mandovi river.

Doodhsagar literally means 'Sea of Milk', as thats how this waterfall looks during monsoon. The fury of gushing milky waters makes one feel for sure that there could not be a better name to christen this waterfalls with. The raliway line passes right infront of this waterfall and is the mode of travel to most visitors to this waterfall. Mostly freight trains rumble along these tracks and the bridge constructed by British does shake while a train passes on it.

Watch out for the naughty monkeys around. The place is strewn with plastic and other wastes indicating a high traffic of visitors. A heavvy price to pay if a fantastic nature spot becomes easily accessible.

Chelavara Falls

2008-08-17T09:59:00.004+05:30

This Waterfall is seasonal and is quite famous with tourists and nature lovers. Though known as Chelavara falls to outside world, locally people know it by the name Emepaare, which means tortoise in local Kodava dialect. The rock over which the water cascades is shaped like a tortoise and hence the name Emepaare. The width of the waterfall makes a sensational viewing during good rains. This is one of the best waterfalls in Kodagu district of Karnataka.